Exploring Korea - Exploring Korea

PIX

UPDATED

October 14, 08

Traffic & Driving

As a foreigner I find that one of the major sources of headaches for me is the way people drive. I guess the general population does pretty well when it comes to driving, and private cars are much more common than in the mid-eighties when I last lived in Seoul.

Driving in Jeonju

1. Insurance is required. I am the only driver signed on the policy, but I pay around $400/yr. That's probably a better price than what I was paying in California, about $1100 for two two cars and two drivers.

2. Registration. All vehicles, including motorcycles must be registered. Many foreigners try to shirk the system by driving unregistered motorcycles, but if caught, it can mean big fines in the upwards of $3,000. Be legit, and you won't have to worry about that.

3. Drinking and Driving. As is the case in most developed countries, drinking and driving is strictly forbidden by law and strongly enforced. If you drink and drive, you can expect to do jail time. During holidays, there are many random sobriety check points. When you see one, just stop your car, smile at the officer, and blow into the machine. It'll take two seconds out of your life and you'll feel much safer knowing that the police are protecting the roads you drive on.

4. Driver's License. Korea honors the international agreements on driving. This courtesy is extended to the members of the G8 Summit. If your country is a member of the G8, you can turn in your national license and exchange it for a Korean license. You'll need to pay for an eye exam and some minor fees, which may be between $20-40.

International Driver's License. Korea also honors international driver's licenses. I used my international driver's license for registration and insurance.

5. Evolution of Transportation. (Or vehicles I've owned in Korea.)

1. 21-speed mountain bike (wannabe mountain bike). This is still my favorite bike. When I leave, I'll probably throw it away. I bought it used from the Chonbuk University bike shop for $50.

2. A 5-speed Daelim VS125 motorcycle. This was given to me by an expat when he left Korea. I never learned to ride a motorbike so it sat under the bike park for 6 months till I gave it away to someone else. A member of my church is driving it now. I was actually afraid to drive a motorbike here in Korea because of the way taxi drivers drive.

3. Daewoo Tico - a three cylinder, 5-speed, mini car with seats enough for four adults (albeit, not comfortably). I'm still convinced that this is still the best car to drive in Korea, except, perhaps, the Matiz. Great mileage, good acceleration, but Terrible (with a capital "T") for long drives on the highway. This car was given to me by my friend Caleb.

4. Hyundai Avante - A four-cyl. 5-speed. A much more family-friendly car. This car is exported as the Hyundai Elantra. This car was on loan from a missionary from my church who served for a year in Turkey. They let us use the car while they were away. Caleb was kind enough to add this car to his insurance, and register it in his name. He then added my name on his policy as the primary driver on the car.

5. Credos 2 - 1.4L, 32 valve, 4cyl. (Same as my Honda Civic in the States).

This car is a small car built into a comfortable large car body. Though the most comfortable of all the cars I've driven, along with the best acceleration, it is quite cumbersome. It's probably about the size of an Olds Cutlass Supreme. Believe me, in this country, with the parking nightmares, this car is quite cumbersome.

We bought it as junk and I am still driving it. I paid $500 for this car from a friend of Caleb's. He had $500 worth of parking tickets and he wanted to junk the car. However, Caleb talked him into giving it to us. He would have given it to us for free, but I thought it would be a nice gesture for us to give him the amount to take care of his parking tickets.

Whereas gas has reached $4/gal in California, we pay between $7 to $8/gal in Korea. Therefore, this car is the most expensive to drive out of all the vehicles thus far. However, we really enjoy having the freedom to travel by car.

Taxis

Taxis are very common all over Korea, and Jeonju is no exception. If you miss one, don't worry, you won't have to wait long to catch the next one.

All taxis have a basic starting fare of W1,800 which is the US equivalent to slightly over $1.80. However, I have noticed that fares can differ from taxi to taxi. For example, when my son and I go to his school in the morning (about 1.5 mi), the cost is W1,800. However, depending on which taxi we get into, it can be as high as W2,100 or more. I know there is something fishy with the meter, but since I can't communicate with the driver, I am at his mercy.

Buses

I think there are three types of buses: The inner-city bus (Shi nae bus), the inter-city bus (Shi Wae bus), and the express bus (Go sok bus).

Inner-City Bus - When traveling inside of one's own city, one pays W850 to any destination within the city. (However, in Kunsan, the fare is W1,000.) I have also acquired an electronic bus card (called Mybi) which is scanned as one boards the bus. Using this card reduces the cost by W50. And, when one uses a Mybi card, if one boards a second bus within 30 minutes, the fare of he second bus can be refunded. To do so, one merely scans the card on the machine above the exit door. These buses are often crowded and have more standing space than seats. If you can stand on a surf board, you should have no problems standing on these buses. (I'm not a surfer.) Many drivers seem to drive like they are bitter at the world. They round corners too fast, slam the brakes too suddenly, and sometimes will pass by a stop unless people make it clear that they want to board the bus. In order to board an inner-city bus, just wait at a bus stop located about every other block.

The Inter-City Bus (Shi Wae bus) is more costly depending on one's destination. These are charter buses with reclining seats, and curtains on the windows, and they are very nice to ride in. Also, they will only sell tickets for as many seats as they have. If you miss your bus, don't worry, another one will usually come along within 15 minutes. I think the longest I have waited for a bus is about 10 minutes. In order to board an inter-city bus, one needs to go to a Shi wae bus terminal (Every taxi driver will understand when you ask to go there.)

The Express Bus (I think these are called kosok bus) will take you to one of many locations throughout the country, the most common destinations being Seoul and Incheon. These buses are much pricier because they are in fact charter buses, and they are the most feasible way to travel long distances (which is a very relative concept given that one can travel the length of the country in less than five hours). These buses can be boarded at a Kosok bus terminal.

Trains

Though Seoul has one of the most advanced subway systems in the world, not many other cities have a subway system. Jeonju, for example, has a train station, but no subway. Given the number of private vehicles and buses, it is probably too expensive for the city to run a subway.

My family and I have taken a few trips by train and have found it to be a very inexpensive and convenient way to travel.

Rules of the Road

1. Pedestrians beware - many drivers do not heed red lights. Most notorious of them are bus and taxi drivers, who don't seem to care what the rules are. Also, watch out for those pesky delivery scooters, whether on the sidewalk or on the road.

2. Everyone shares the same road space - whether four-year olds on bicycles with training wheels, motorcycles, delivery scooters, buses, taxis, private cars, heavy equipment, they all share the same road--and even the sidewalk too. Also, they all expect YOU to move over for them.

3. One hand on the wheel, one hand on the horn at at times - no matter where you go, you will hear the constant beep of several different kinds of horns at all times. However, I've discovered that horns are not meant to be rude, but to simply communicate with other drivers, "I am here." I was always one to complain about Koreans in California who never look back when pulling out of a parking lot. Now I understand that this is the way people drive in Korea. They simply intstall mirrors all over the interior of their car, and if they don't see anthing, they just give a small honk for good measure and back out without looking. Horns are a means of communication between drivers.

Preparing to Leave Korea

After being in Korea for almost 3 years, we're finally prepping to leave. On December 15, 2008, we'll be returning to Southern California. Overall, the experience has been a good one.

I thought I'd jot down some of the benefits I've gained from living in Jeonju Korea.

Our marriage is stronger.
Our children are completely bilingual.
We've met wonderful people from all over the world.
I've learned to be much more accepting of Korean culture while being much less critical.
We've met some really wonderful Korean friends.
I've learned to flow with the traffic here in Joenju. In other words, if I can drive here, I can drive anywhere.

Why Korea

In August of 2005, I was serving as Youth Pastor of a Church in SoCal. At the time my wife Sunny and I were feeling very comfortable in our lives. Yet, there was a sort of nagging feeling that God had not called us to a life of comfort.

We both felt that we needed some new challenges in our lives. It was then that we decided to move back to Korea, the country where both of us were born.

We arrived in Korea toward the end of January 2006. God has been gracious to open all the doors for us.

Since we arrived in Korea, we've found that life here is not easy--it's challenging. Even though we are ethnic Koreans, we are treated as foreigners in this country. Having the label of "a foreigner" means that we are always looked at, and treated as outsiders.

Manners and Customs in Korea

Greetings - As with all cultures, Korea has it's own customs for greeting. When meeting someone, a short bow is the most appropriate greeting. Also, when meeting someone older, one should not extend a hand to shake hands first. One should always wait for the older person to extend his hand first.

Some common greeting expressions:

1.Casual: An nyung. (안녕: only use with children. It is our American equivalent to "Hi," or What's up.")

2. Polite: An nyung ha sae yo? (안녕하세요: This is appropriate for all ages. This expression is used as a "hello" greeting.)

3. Formal: An nyung ha shimni kka? (안녕하십니까: This is to be used in any formal address to one's elders. The meaning is the same as above, but is to be used more formally.)

Manners - Table manners are quite different her in the ROK than in America. When eating with students, they will wait for the teacher to take the first bite before eating or drinking anything on the table.

Water or drinks in restaurants - water or drinks are usually self-serve. There is a water dispenser and a UV cup rack somewhere in the restaurant. Go easy on the water during your first couple of months in Korea until your body can adjust to it.

When eating out or eating with with a group family-style (sharing food from a common plate), it is considered good manners to leave a little food on the plate. If you finish the plate, unless you are invited to do so, it can be considered rude. However, if you are served your own plate of food, you should finish the meal so as not to offend your host.

Eating new (challenging) food - Most people in this culture are very gracious about food. They understand that you may not be accustomed to eating certain types of food, especially if it is too spicy. When asked to go out to eat, simply speak with your host ahead of time to let them know what types of foods you do or don't prefer. However, if you have said nothing before going out. Don't tell them after the fact that you hated the food, and that it made you sick. Your host will feel very ashamed.

Vegetarians - you are truly blessed because Koreans eat any and every kind of vegetable and fruit. There are a myriad of vegetable dishes. However, if you have a non-meat preference, make arrangements with your host ahead of time. There are several vegetarian buffets and restaurants in and around Jeonju for you to choose. Many Koreans assume that Americans like meat so they will go out of their way to provide lots of meat in order to be good hosts.

Knocking - Experience has taught me to lock my doors when I am at home. Here in Jeonju (and this may just be a regional thing) many people open the door to announce their arrival. They do not knock or ring the doorbell. I have found that Christians are better about knocking, but everyone from the neighbor's kid, the gas company, Jehovah's Witnesses, to strangers checking to see if they found the right house of a friend, has opened my door without knocking. Many church people usually call ahead (about two minutes before) to let me know they're coming, and then usually walk in. That's fine, but total strangers opening my door is not cool!

Shopping Etiquette

When you go shopping in Korea, items are price-marked as in the States. Many people make the mistake of thinking they can haggle like in China or in other countries. However, that is usually not the case.

Here are some mistakes to avoid:

1. While it is OK to ASK a salesperson for a discount or a free gift to go along with your purchase, don't insist on it.

2. Just because prices are higher than you want to pay, don't assume people are trying to rip you off. As in the USA, different stores have different prices, and it's the wise shopper who does the comparative shopping before purchasing. If you don't like the price, simply ask for a reasonable discount or go elsewhere.

3. Don't buy something at the first store you see it. It is best to ask a native friend where is the best place to buy this or that, or have someone go with you. You will most likely save more money this way.

Places I have been in the ROK.

There is much to see and do here in Korea. Unfortunately, I haven't had too many opportunities to see the country. Jeonju is in the Southwest of Korea above the rabbit's foot. I have been to many more places than I have listed, but I have forgotten their place names. I'm thankful for our native friends who drive us around and introduce us to the variety of foods and places here in Jeonbuk Province. (Clicking the hyperlinks below will redirect you to my Picasa photo albums.)

1. Sunchang Gochu Jang Village (순창 고추장 마을) - On a Saturday, a friend from Cali was visiting a so a Korean friend decided he would drive us around to show us the local scenery. We drove on small roads beside the mountain. The drive was beautiful. There was much to see in the way of landscape, rivers, and mountains, small towns and villages. We went to Sunchang which is well known for gochu jang (Korean red pepper paste).

This village is pretty touristy and the natives were very friendly. Many shops in the village sell containers of gochujang. Each shop owner says theirs is unique or is the best because it's "mom's recipe," or "grandma's recipe." I was able to sample several shops, and I have to say, they are all very good.

2. Jungeup (정읍) - Jungeup is a small and quaint town. If you enjoy walking like I do, you can stroll the length of the river and see some of the local culture. Many of the old people in town like to play Gateball (Croquette). Also, in the spring, there are flea markets along the river that sell everything. There are usually shops in tents, food stalls, live music, and even dancing.

Jungeup is most famous for Naejang San (Mt. Naejang). Seeing the colors of the fall foliage is a special treat.

3. Kunsan (군산) - Not one of my favorite places, but there are things to do and places to see. Check on Eirene's page to see a post on the Aviary park, and the reservoir. There are many more things to see, but I'm not familiar with the place names. Shopping is expensive here. In some places, 30% more than Jeonju.

I've been to the traditional market here and also to the downtown area which has a couple of nice coffee shops, a few bakeries, and a small cinema.

Chunjangdae is a beach located about an hour north of Kunsan, but I found it to be dirty, smelly, muddy, and the water was lukewarm. There are many floating carcasses of fish and sea animals, and occasionally, even birds.

4. Yeosu (여수) - A very nice coastal city. This is a quiet little city located along the coast. There are some nice beaches--some rocky, some sandy, some muddy--that are really family friendly. Most of the restaurants seem to be geared toward seafood (Sashimi or spicy fish soup). Therefore, if these don't please your appetite, you should think about packing your own food. I'm sure there are restaurants that don't serve fish but you'll have to look hard.

Odongdo (오동도) - is/was a little island off the coast of Yeosu, now turned into a park. There are some really nice beaches there, and cave tours, an observatory, etc. It is connected to Yeosu by a bridge, and one needs to pay a fare to go on the island.

Dolsan (돌산, trans: Stone Mountain) - I was told that this is probably Korea's third largest island--was an island. Dolsan is now connected to Yeosu by a large A-shaped bridge. We spent the day with a few families eating sashimi for lunch and playing on the beach. The kids had a blast playing on the beach and it was a relaxing day for the adults.

The two-hour drive from Jeonju to Yeosu was a bit difficult for the little ones--they got car sick--so I'd recommend taking the train if you have kids.

Buan (부안) - A small coastal city. We didn't spend any time in the city, but took the ferry to Wido (위도), a very nice island off the coast. Wido has perhaps some of the best beaches I've seen in Korea thus far, and the natives seem much friendlier. If you want to spend a relaxing afternoon, come off-season when the beaches aren't crowded. There are only one or two restaurants on the island, so think about packing your own food.

Discrimination In Korea

As a foreign Korean, it is very clear that Koreans treat all foreigners as a lesser class of people. Thus most Chinese and Vietnamese can only find jobs as underpaid factory workers who cannot receive government health care.

This discrimination also extends to Korean-Americans like Sunny and me. Even though English is my native language, my only language, I receive half the pay that a caucasian-American would receive. At several hagwons I have been told point-blank that they cannot pay me the same because parents want their children to learn English from a "white person." I have heard that this kind of discrimination is illegal, but who, or what body of government agency can, or is willing to enforce the the existing laws.

Indeed, when people have asked me where I came from, and I reply by saying, "I am American." They cannot seem to understand that not everyone in America is blond-haired, blue-eyed, and white-complexioned.

The most difficult thing about living in Korea is that people still seem to have a very narrow mindset.

Sunny's Page

Alan's Page

Eirene's Page

AICF

New: Eirene's Poems

Culture Tips

1. Don't tip - In Korea, it is unnecessary to tip. People will think you are strange if you do.

2. Don't drink the water - even if it comes out of an electric dispenser. I have noticed that people usually take the water bottle into the bathroom to fill them from the tap. Don't trust the water dispensers to be filtered either.

3. BYOTP - Bring Your Own Toilet Paper. In many public toilets in Asia, you may find that they are not stocked with toilet paper. Usually you will find a TP dispenser for a few hundred won. However, it is ALWAYS a good idea to BYOTP.

4. Honorifics - Although the Korean language uses three forms of address, familiar, polite, and formal, as a general rule it is best to speak using the formal address to everyone.